Conquest of the Cape

After an exciting week in Brisbane with a birthday party, wedding and celebration, we flew out at 6am on Monday, 20th July to return to Cairns. James picked us up from the airport, we put our luggage in the caravan, ensured everything was secured and hit the road. 

First stop, the IGA just off the Captain Cook Highway for perishables, then up the steep and winding road to cross the Great Dividing Range, turning right onto the Mulligan Highway towards Cooktown. 

We continued to Lakeland, the “Gateway to the Cape”, where we stopped for lunch. There is plenty of information here to help travellers understand what is in the local area, plus a range of statues of attractions to be found on the Cape.

We arrived at Fairview Station, our stop for the next two nights and our meeting place with Jo-Anne and Ian, who had arrived a day earlier. It was great to get together in person and be able to do our final planning; up until now it had all been done remotely via email or facetime... 

Jo-Anne had prepared a delicious Lasagne for dinner and we enjoyed eating it together in front of the campfire.

Tuesday morning was spent packing and sorting, working out who was taking what and how it was all going to fit! We had previously organised lists of equipment, food and other supplies so, once we started packing and arranging we were finished well before lunch. In the afternoon we went to the Quinkan Cultural centre, full of information about the local area, history and unique indigenous people and culture. There was a lot of fascinating things to read about! After the centre closed we went to the local pub in Laura and enjoyed a celebratory drink before returning to the station for a meal in the dining area - chicken parma or crumbed steak followed by apple crumble - delicious! An early night followed - we have a lot of adventures ahead of us…

Next morning we were up early to pack the vans and move them onto sites for storage, and before 9am we left Fairview Station in our loaded up 4WDs. The bitumen road continued for several kilometres but once it ended, Martin and Ian lowered the tyre pressure to reduce the risk of punctures. The road conditions were generally pretty good, with lots of dips where water would cross during the wet season. We passed a couple of road crews grading sections of gravel roads; lots of tourists pass at this time of the year and it doesn’t take long for corrugations to appear again, making for a bone-jarring experience! We stopped briefly at Hann River Roadhouse before morning tea, anticipating a longer stop at Musgrave Station. Further along the road, a rogue large bolt  protruding at the wrong spot, and the loud banging as it pierced the wall of the rear tyre, had us pulled over just near a road crew to change the wheel. Fortunately it was a relatively simple, if dirty, process for Martin and Ian, and the water carter stopped just in front of us, his lights flashing, to warn other travellers to slow down. 

We continued on to Musgrave Telegrah Station, our morning tea stop, hoping they had a tyre service there, but no luck, so we resumed our journey towards Coen, straight to the mechanics, who was able to plug it, before we found a campsite behind the pub on the banks of the river. As this was our first night in a tent for quite a lot of years, getting everything sorted and ship shape took quite a while! Rearranging the car after unpacking to change the tyre was also a priority, so the afternoon was spent quietly, winding down and chatting to other campers as they rolled into the area. Many people choose to take their vans further north than us, but judging by the amount of dust they accumulate, plus the added risk of damage we might encounter, we are not sorry we haven’t done that! We enjoyed a pasta dinner under the shelter before retiring to bed.

The birds, in particular the curlews, woke us early on Thursday morning so we were packed up and ready to go well before 8.30. The road was a mix of bitumen and gravel, with a few corrugated sections, but it was mostly in good condition so we were pleased with how easy the drive was. We stopped for morning tea at Archer River roadhouse, continuing on the Peninsula Development Road past the turnoff to Cape York, reaching Weipa just after midday. 

We set up our tents on a large, grassy site and, after Martin had taken his wheel to Tyrepower have a new tyre fitted, we had lunch in the shade, did some shopping at the local Woolies and hit the pool for a well earned swim. We took advantage of the camp kitchen barbecue to enjoy some pork steaks and potatoes with salad and, after some chat and a few laughs, retired to bed.

 On Friday morning we had to be up reasonably early to be ready for our mine tour. The high set bus held 15 paying passengers and we took the back seat with its elevated windows in order to enjoy the sites. After a short tour of the town we headed north, crossing the Mission River via the long single lane bridge and entering the Andoom Mine site. 

Huge heavy loaders and bulldozers dominated the wide, red roads, carting bauxite to the processing plant for washing before it is loaded onto the train for freighting to the port. Most bauxite goes straight to China to be made into Aluminium although some still goes to Gladstone, in Queensland. There is enough bauxite in the current mine to last for another 60 years and Rio Tinto owns a huge local area and can continue to mine into perpetuity!

Later, after we returned to camp and had a refreshing cuppa, Martin and I walked to the Albatross Hotel for a nice light lunch while Jo-Anne and Ian had lunch at home and a swim. We joined them at the pool after our walk home and, as we were having our evening meal at “Barra Munchies”, we had a lazy afternoon. We snagged a table just near the beach well before sunset, marvelling at the beautiful colours as the sun descended before tucking in to fish and chips with our own salad and wine as the sky darkened. Returning to our camp, past the large group watching the rugby league on a makeshift screen, we were happy to retire to bed in anticipation of another exciting day to come.

On Saturday morning, after packing up, we set off back along the Peninsula Development Road. We turned east into Batavia Downs station, taking the well maintained 40km “shortcut” to join the Telegraph Track heading north. We arrived at Bramwell Station before lunch and found a shady spot to set up camp. The day was quite warm and, with no pool to cool off in, we put on our swimwear, each had a cool shower and then lazed around, damp, in the breeze - quite refreshing! Dinner that night was at the homestead's outdoor dining room, where we had a briefing about the history of the station, enjoyed a two course meal and bopped along to the local entertainment. We got to bed soon after nine, excited to know we were heading closer to our bucket list destination - the tip of Cape York!

Another reasonably early start on Sunday morning saw us out the gate and heading north by 8:30am. After a brief stop at Bramwell Junction, where the Old Telegraph Track and the Bypass Road diverge, we turned right, choosing corrugations and occasional bitumen patches over rugged roads and rough creek crossings. There is not much to see on the bypass road, and it was relatively quiet, so we arrived at the Jardine River ferry by 11:15 and had crossed to the northern side 3 minutes and $160 later…it's an expensive way to cross the river, but there is no alternative!

We continued along the Bamaga Road, through the town and out towards the sea to Seisia. We had heard that the camping ground was closed, but several people were set up there so we enquired and were told that it was reopened but the office only operates from Monday to Friday, so we should find a place to camp and pay tomorrow. We chose a spot near the seashore, where a shelter provided power and water, unpacked our chairs, tables and cooking gear and enjoyed a sausage sizzle lunch. Later in the afternoon, as it cooled down, we set up the tents and, after a late afternoon drink watching the sun set, we enjoyed chicken fajitas before an early night.

Tuesday morning we were all excited and ready for our trip to Pajinka and the northern tip of Australia. We zipped the tent off the side of our car, made room for Jo-Anne and Ian in the back, and set off, up a corrugated, windy track with a couple of creek crossings. We stopped at the Croc Tent to check out the souvenirs before arriving at the carpark before 10am. The tide was coming in, so walking along the beach was not an option. Instead, we climbed up over the rocky terrain, pausing to admire the views and arriving at the tip of Australia just as the only other tourists there departed! It was lovely standing on the edge of the continent and looking out across the islands. 

A series of mishaps on our way back meant we really took our time, then, after a restorative cuppa, we drove to Punsand Bay for a relaxing lunch at the Corrugation Bar. On our way back we stopped to check out the WWII aeroplane wrecks near the Bamaga airport, then we visited the well-stocked Bamaga Supermarket before returning to camp, reassembling the tent and relaxing for the night. Sometime after midnight, a wild horse made a racket raiding the garbage bins, but once it was shooed away we all slept well again.

We were up and organised early on Tuesday morning; we had a ferry to catch to Thursday Island! We boarded the ferry just before 8am and had a lovely fast journey, past many islands, arriving at our destination just before 9:30. We boarded our tour bus for an informative trip around the island, visiting the Green Hill gun emplacements and museum and the very interesting local cemetery before returning to town, where we had a coffee in the only indigenous cafe in town and did a walking tour, which included the souvenir shops, cultural centre and historical churches.

We finished off at the Torres Pub, the northernmost pub in Australia, for a nice lunch. We boarded the ferry for the return trip at 2:30 and arrived just after 3:30, ready for a bit of afternoon relaxation and a BBQ steak dinner.

On Wednesday morning it was packing up time again. We stopped at the well-stocked Bamaga supermarket for a few supplies then began our journey south, towards the Jardine River. The corrugated dirt road is gradually being replaced with bitumen and, with roadworks often only possible during the “dry” season, they are racing to get as much completed as they can before the next big wet. Ironically, there was some rain as we drove along but it was fairly light. 

We arrived at the ferry crossing as one car and van was driving on, so we didn’t even have to wait! We pulled up in the camping area on the other side for morning tea and to wait for Ian and Jo-Anne, who had stopped for fuel before they left Bamaga, then we all continued along the road until we reached the turnoff for the northern Old Telegraph Track. The difference in road conditions, from a well used, wide dirt road onto the bumpy, narrow track with dips into creek crossings and very rocky sections, made us appreciate the bypass road! Seven kilometres later we turned off, into Eliot Falls campground. 

We had chosen a large campsite in order to all fit on it together, and we were rewarded with a great flat site, far enough away from other campers but within walking distance of the amenities and the tracks to the falls. After setting up we went for a walk to explore each of the waterfalls there: Saucepan, Eliot and Twin Falls. Crocodile warning signs are at the first two, both on the upper Jardine River, but Twin Falls, running off Canal Creek, is safer for swimming and very popular. Martin had never been to the area before and was amazed at how beautiful it was. Sue, who had written in her 1995 diary: “this is the nicest place I will NEVER see again”, was happy to be back!

We returned to camp for lunch just as rain started and, while we were disappointed in the weather, we were appreciative that Ian had put up his extra awning and we had a dry place to sit. Later in the afternoon we put on our bathers and water shoes and returned to the falls. It was lovely in the water - there is nothing quite like a refreshing swim in the middle of the bush! A quiet night followed, with bush turkeys wandering around, Jo-Anne’s spaghetti bolognaise for dinner and the peace of the bush surrounding us. When it is quiet,  you can hear the water rushing over Saucepan Falls in the distance.

Thursday was a “rest” day with no packing or driving, and the rain had stopped! We lazed the day away with swims and bushwalks, enjoying the serenity of no corrugated roads, no mobile reception and nothing but nature to enjoy. It was perfect.

 

On Friday we were on the move again, first stop Fruit Bat Falls before the crowds arrived. These fall are on a wide, rocky ledge, with a big swimming area beneath the falls and small water holes above. We took our time enjoying the water before returning to the road and turning onto the southern bypass road for a corrugated trip. 

So many cars were going the other way, many with caravans or camper trailers attached - Jo-Anne counted over 50! We stopped briefly at the memorial to Edward Kennedy’s men, who disappeared during his expedition north and were never seen again,  before continuing on to Bramwell Junction Roadhouse, our stop for tonight.  After choosing a lovely flat spot with a shelter shed for cooking and eating, not too far from the amenities but well off the busy road, we ordered take away burgers from the roadhouse, sat back and relaxed for the afternoon. Our original plan had been to camp further along the road, at Moreton Telegraph Station, however it is closed after receiving heavy damage in Cyclone Narelle this year. As it happened, we were very happy with this “second choice”, which has the best facilities we have encountered on this whole trip! 

We continued along the Telegraph Track on Saturday morning, turning left at the Peninsula Development Road and taking the Portland Road soon after that. We forded the Wenlock River and continued through the Iron Range, past Mount Tozer and through the Pascoe River, onto the road to Lockhart River. This large aboriginal community is home to the Lockhart Arts Community but, unfortunately for us, the centre is closed on weekends. Many large paintings adorn the walls outside, so at least we got to see some art!

From there we drove to Portland Roads, once a large port with a big jetty for transporting goods, especially during local mining operations, and a strategic post during World War II, now a sleepy fishing village with a great seafood cafe, where we enjoyed fish and prawns for lunch. We drove to Chilli Beach, a long stretch of sand where the wind blew strongly, then headed to our camp for the night at Cape Weymouth, high on the headland above the beach. 

We tried to get a spot where the strong winds would have the least impact, but it was still tricky getting ourselves set up. Luckily there was a shelter where we could cook and eat dinner, out of the worst of the winds. The views over the water to Restoration Island were quite spectacular and we enjoyed a pasta dinner and an early night.

We packed up reasonably early the next morning and headed west again, just as light rain started, settling the dust and filling the many ruts and potholes in the road. There were a few road workers continuing to improve and widen the gravel roads - they work long hours during the dry season. We reached the Peninsula Development Road and turned south, continuing to Archer River, where  we turned onto the old low level river crossing, admiring the kids jumping into the fast flowing water but deciding not to join them! The Archer River bridge, 12 metres above the water level, has made a huge difference to the river crossing, particularly during the “wet”, when it didn’t take too much rain to make the crossing impassable. Lunch at the Roadhouse was an enormous “Archer burger” - a real treat evidently loved by the truckies who travel that way regularly. 

Later, we continued south to Coen, busy with Sunday crowds at the pub and many cars and caravans lined up to get fuel before the excise recommences tomorrow. We set up in the campground behind the “(S)exchange” hotel and relaxed the afternoon away. Many campers arrived as the afternoon wore on; we were very glad we’d secured our spot early! An afternoon drink in the beer garden and a delicious Chop Suey dinner capped off another lovely day and we were in bed early, ready for our final pack up and return to our caravans in the morning.

Monday was a bittersweet morning - it will be nice to get back to the "comfort" of our caravans but we have all enjoyed the camping experience and it definitely was the best way to go to the Cape. No red dust in every crevice, no swaying on gravel roads or jolting over corrugations - just a pleasant drive with the occasional tricky bit of road, easily navigated in the 4WDs. We stopped at the Hann River Roadhouse, where the proprieter explained all the improvements they've made since taking over five years ago - much better than when Sue stayed here 31 years ago. We arrived back at Fairview Station just before noon, hooking up the vans and moving them into a nice shady spot. We will spend two nights here, getting ourselves back in order, washing, cleaning and planning our next adventures.